Jo-Jo Tai Pei

Do four Taiwanese eateries within a half-mile radius make a neighborhood a Taiwan-town?

The original two Taiwanese store fronts in Allston Village were Infusions Tea Spa (tapioca pearl tea and tea-time snack haven) and its next door neighbor - Yi Soon Bakery. Then Super 88 welcomed a Wisteria in the food court after the Newbury Street location split into two (the Super 88 in Allston and the East Cambridge sit-down). More recently Jo-Jo Tai Pei moved across the street from the bakery.

I've been there twice and both times have been quite tasty. The first time Sandra and Jack brought me there for the "special pork chop over rice" ($6.99), Taiwanese stir-fried noodles ($6.99), "famous spicy beef noodle soup" ($8.99), and "bow bin" shaved ice (small $4.99).

The pork chop plate really felt like a good value. The chop was season, fried, and enormous. Sides included a tea egg, Chinese broccoli, and some pickled turnip (?) - I never touch it, so I'm never sure. I love the "garnish" of stewed fatty pork belly pieces.





The stir fried noodles were simple, not overly oily, and perfectly seasoned with just enough garlic and onion flavor.



The beef noodles, while pricier than I'd like to pay for, were delicious. The spiciness level was decent and the texture of the noodles was dense enough to give a little chew.



The shaved ice was tasty. Of all the sweet toppings I love the tapioca pearls and boiled peanuts the best. While I do enjoy the sweet beans, my brain never gets used to eating sweetened boiled mung beans.



I followed Jerry and Scott there a second time for the "crispy smelly bean curd" ($5.99), oyster pancake ($5.99), cold dan-dan peanut noodles ($6.99), and large bow bin ($6.99).

It was my first stinky tofu experience. The whole restaurant could smell something was up once our order was fired up. A few Asian and non-Asian patrons asked each other "What is that smell?" For all it's pungency, the flavor and texture were pretty mellow. The pieces of tofu are bite-sized, so it's easy to throw a few down the gullet and act like a season stinky-tofu eater. The oyster pancake was good, but not as amazing as Myers+Chang's version. The dan-dan noodles were tasty - and easy enough to take out for a picnic dish. I enjoy them more than Thai Peanut noodle salad because they use a thicker (almost Soba-like) noodle.

I look forward to going back to search for one of my holy grail, childhood food memory dishes - the Jo-Jo Special Mini Steamed Bun. It's a thicker dough version of a soup-on-the-inside dumpling that's been pan seared. The ones I remember from my elementary school days in a South Bay Taiwanese noodle shop were pan fried on both sides, but the Jo-Jo version online appears to be close enough. I'll find out one of these days.

Food Lust

Jerry is a church dude who is known as the most discerning Chinese food diner out of all of us. Perhaps it's because his family owns a Chinese restaurant.

While dining at the newly renovated Mulan the other day, I asked him which Massachusetts restaurant has the most authentic Chinese/Taiwanese food. Jerry immediately answered, "Chung-shin Yuan in Newton."

Apparently they have the most amazing Taiwanese brunch menu on the weekends. I've heard stories from co-workers who live in the neighborhood about the long lines of customers they see everytime they drive past the building. Church folk have told tales of waiting an hour before the 11:30 AM first seating... Jerry's even had to wait over an hour for take-out.

I'm so eager to try this place for myself. Though, even more intimidating is Jerry's advice to bring someone with me who can read Chinese (apparently translations won't help you much).

Chung-shin Yuan INC
183 California St
Newton, MA 02458-1008

Iron Chef Tofu Battle: NYC Chinatown Edition

Jen's boyfriend, Daniel, has been on a 6 month in NYC. While I'm not totally clear on the origins of our dinner party, it seems safe to say that one of his Princeton buddies, Olympia, decided to challenge Daniel to an Iron Chef-like dinner battle. From an email thread, I gleaned that he is apparently naturally suited to such a competition because of his "Bobby Flay-esque egotism." I received a voicemail from Daniel and a text from Jen: Would I go to NYC to be his "secret weapon/sous chef?"

I agreed at the last minute. I knew I'd be in town to have Filipino brunch with Jen and Thuy and Nicki pre-dinner battle. And, if I took the Chinatown bus, I'd only spend $30 round-trip. A day of good food, old friends, and new people? I couldn't pass it up.

The secret ingredient was announced at 4 pm in Chinatown. Tofu.

Jen thuy and I were in SoHo when we got the news. "What a piss-poor ingredient," I thought out loud. I was a little mad. Tofu? I rarely use the stuff. And we were against two Cantonese girls. They'd out-Chinese me for sure. I had to think out of the box.

Jen and I arrived at 5 pm just before Daniel. The girls, who went by both Queens of Canton and Team Canton, had pre purchased 6 or so different types of tofu. We claimed our tofu types and all shopped separately before returning to the kitchen. Both teams shared the stove and rotated to accommodate each other... by 8 or 9 pm we presented our dishes and started to eat.

True to Chinese form, Team Canton had a hot and sour soup with the soy-marinated tofu, wood ear, and pork. It was super yummy - you could taste the melted pork fat. They followed up with fish paste-stuffed tofu and eggplant. They even scored the eggplant so it'd "absorb more flavor." I thought it had good texture. Then they had a noodle bowl with tofu, kailan, red pepper and (a store-bought) roast duck. It was a pretty dish the judges liked in appearance. [The dinner "Chariman" originally asked that duck be our secret ingredient, so one of the Queens of Canton purchased this to appease him] Their closer was "tofu" almond gelatin topped with mangoes. I must say, I was a little skeptical of it's true "tofuness," butI'm sure it tasted just fine.

Daniel and I donned our yellow aprons and named ourselves "Team Awesome." We started our international tofu menu with a silken tofu/soy ice cream/peach-berry smoothie. It was California-inspired for sure. Daniel is not Canto, but he is obsessed with Sichuan food, so he used his Blackberry to craft a super-spicy ma po tofu. It got high flavor marks from the judges. Next I took the judges to Southeast Asia by making a yellow coconut curry with potatoes, okra, deep-fried tofu puffs and deep-fried hard-boiled eggs. I was so proud of this dish because the texture of the exterior of the eggs matched the puffs so well. Plus, the nooks and crannies of the tofu skin, egg "skin" held the sauce nicely. Then we closed with a trip to Italy. We combined silken tofu and ricotta to make a lasagna with a pork ragù and and homemade balsamella (bechamel) sauces. It was sooo surprisingly good we could have left out the ricotta entirely.

the judges deliberated on....

Flavor (ma po tofu and lasagna hit the spot)
Presentation
Creativity (smoothie and lasagna)
Use of ingredient

We won the flavor and creativity categories so it came down to points. .... and we won! Bringing tofu out of Asia was our biggest asset.

Shanghai Gate

After softball on Friday a group of us decided to go to dinner. We were in Brookline Hills, so I thought we'd end up some place typical for the beer crowd. Perhaps Bertucci's?

Bless our team captain, Ted, for suggesting Chinese food instead.

From the confused looks of others, I hoped to lend a worthwhile suggestion: Shanghai Gate?

Shanghai Gate opened up the year I lived in Allston. The minute it opened I knew I had to try it. The menu was small, the setting was s. clean, and it's patrons were almost exclusively Asian. I've been in love with it ever since.

We inevitably go just for the Lion Head Casserole, a Shanghai-style oversized pork meatball served with single piece of baby bok choi and thin soy gravy. It's absolutely tender and salty, with subtle contrasting bits (of water chestnuts?). We've on occasion taken the meatballs to-go just so we could eat them with rice at home. Stephen, a connoisseur of Shanghai food in his own right, says they're one of the top two Lion Head Casserole he's had outside of China.

They also serve stir-fried pea shoots ("pea pod stems" on the menu). It's a simple, huge portion of crispy, tender veggie in a little garlic and oil and salt. They are an excellent, better tasting alternative to spinach. It as a first-time veggie for two in our group, but a big hit. The xiao long bao (pork dumpling with soup on the inside!) was added a year or so into the restaurant menu. It's gotten a lot better since. It's especially nice with the black vinegar and ginger dipping sauce.

I haven't tried to many of the cold appetizers, but specials and fish dishes are always winners. Here's a Phoenix review if you're curious. If you're up for a wild and crazy dish, ask for the corn pancake. a slightly sweet, enormous corn fritter.

Asia Fabulous II - Debriefed

Yesterday was pretty awesome. Pretty much everyone who said they'd come visited the house and joined us for an afternoon of eating and drinking outside in the sunshine. The bonus is that our house is really quite clean and attractive-looking.

beverages included Thai and Malay iced teas and mimosas

dishes included "filichino" pancit, Korean bi bim bap, penang curry, korean-fried tofu with a chili soy sauce, asian salad, adobo wings & hard boiled eggs (we ran low on the chicken and I couldn't stand wasting all the gravy goodness), Shanghai baby bok choy with veggie oyster sauce and toasted sesame seeds, & char siu bao

desserts included Vietnamese seamed sweet mung bean-filled glutinous rice wrapped in banana leaf, egg tarts, Asian cakes via baobaobakery, mango mochi, & sweet red bean buns

The main party crowd left and the die hards moved inside for gender war taboo. Then the babies came! Lisa brought both Holly and their doggie Acer. Jesse came by with Isaiah, too!

In all, good times were had and bellies left full. Until next year's Asia Fabulous!