Cheese of the Year: Queso Fresco

I've had a lot of delicious cheese in my day. Creamy cheese. Hard cheese. Crumbly cheese. Stinky cheese. Fruit-filled cheese. Ash-filled cheese. Aged cheese. Fresh cheese. Stringy cheese. California cheese. Organic Cheese. :: GASP :: And I've even munched on the occasional bit of pasturized cheese product!

But, my most beloved cheese of 2009 was the humble, delicious, and stunning queso fresco.

I wasn't a total stranger to this cheese; I remembered bits of it crumbled on my ocasional order of enchiladas. However, until this year, I'd never really snacked on this queso for queso's sake.

The Salazar's introduced it to me on my brief So Cal visit in November. I was a little unsure of what I should expect from my snack of cold cheese slices served in a skillet-warmed corn tortilla. I hadn't had any sort of unmelted quesadilla before... But ultimately, I gave in to the better judgement of my hosts.

My first bite was life-changing. The unaged cheese was incredibly mild but full of fresh cow milk flavor. And because it wasn't over-salted, the flavor of the tortilla was able to really shine. I was so instantly enamored with the cheese that I made a batch of savory crepes the next morning for brunch and served them with queso fresco and ham.

After a few tries, the California-made Ranchero by Cacique is my favorite brand. The Casero by El Mexicano is also very popular and tasty, but I find that its more dry. Perhaps I'll try to make it from scratch in 2010.

My advice: Try it and share bites with your friends. If the bunch of you can't enjoy it in one sitting, make sure to store it in an odor resistant container - since it's such a mild, fresh cheese an inferior container may impart funky tastes or smells rendering your nice bit of cheese totally inedible.

Photo credits: me

Closing the Boston Chapter - Part 3: Jewish/Israeli food binging in Brookline

My last week in Brookline meant having a little bit of something from the neighborhood every day.

My typical stop was a breakfast of hazelnut coffee and a bagel sandwich from Kupel's. The bagel sandwiches on the menu come with a free bottled water which I always forgot to pick up. The lox spread was really creamy and hit the spot when I wanted to save $$ and skip the real lox. Moreover, my most favorite item at Kupel's had to have been the fresh challah. They had a really sweet dough that resembled (no joke) Chinese BBQ Pork Buns (the baked kind not the steamed kind). I could eat a loaf of that in one sitting if I allowed myself to do so.

Something indulgent but frequent were my stops for lunch with friends or evening to-go orders at Zaftigs, my beloved modern Jewish deli. Cold fish plates, cold cuts by the pound, perfect house coffee, banana stuffed french toast, knish, bagel chips and herbed cream cheese, or even the occasional chocolate chip cookie made me smile. Perhaps I'll spend money one day on a kitschy t-shirt from the counter. Examples: "Knish me" "Almost Jewish" "Got Challah?"

From Exploding taste buds lead to exploding waistlines

A rarer stop was going to the "real deal" places like Rubin's Kosher Deli or The Butcherie, a small grocery store. At Rubin's I'd go in off-peak so I could order from the counter by myself, without fear of being perceived as "the other." Shmaltzy kasha varnishkes, pastrami, knish.... I loved taking it all home. The Butcherie had the most Israeli products I've ever seen. I felt it was my little secret that I could read all the packages in Hebrew... but I never dared speak or thank anyone in Ivrit.

From Exploding taste buds lead to exploding waistlines

I squeezed in a couple stops into Ruth's Kitchen and Cafe Eilat before I left. I had my first kugel from Ruth's -- mm, it's probably not Ruth's fault, but I don't think I like kugel. I went into Cafe Eilat because the name seemed like something straight out of my Modern Hebrew textbooks. I tried some imported Israeli panna cotta. While I usually LOVE panna cotta, the trip around the world (or the likely freeze and defrosting) killed the texture of my dessert. The place also seemed pretty overpriced without any apparent differences in quality or kosherness.

Good or bad, I'll forever look to Brookline's Jewish and Israeli food stops for great food memories. Life will never be the same without having a fresh, immediate supply of challah.

From Exploding taste buds lead to exploding waistlines

Closing the Boston Chapter - Part 2: Chung Shin Yuan

I made a half-hearted entry a while back lamenting my lust for Taiwanese brunch in Newton. Before I left for California, I finally upped the whining and wrangled up a few church buddies of Taiwanese heritage to take me to this mythical, best-of-the-best, hidden food stop.

I had to overcome a few other hurdles to make this food voyage. First, the restaurant name is unapologetically Chinese which on the surface intimidates me - as a part Chinese-American, by way of a couple generations of family that kept British English as their home language, I've played deaf and dumb to any Mandarin, Cantonese, Taiwanese, etc... I've encountered. I usually assume that any Chinese restaurant with a real Chinese name at least has a second English name for me to use so I won't embarrass myself by butchering some poor transliteration of the original.

Second, the restaurant's Newton-Watertown border location is just plain F-A-R to most lay carless Bostonians. This truth had been a put-off to my usual food-hopping pals. Chung Shin Yuan could've been in Timbuktu for all some people cared.

Third, the restaurant exterior is almost scary. The sign is so faded and the exterior is so nondescript, that my Boston-hardened heart would've immediately rejected this place on it's lack of curb appeal alone. Apparently, my time on the East Coast clouded one of my life experience personal truths that many a good ethnic restaurant can (and sometimes must) be found in unlikely places, such as a strip mall or gas station.

Fourth, rumors I heard about the weekend brunch line were legendary - most folks recommended at least a half-hour wait. One couple I knew said that being in line didn't even guarantee you'd make it for one of the brunch seatings.

Waiting line at 11:05 AM from Exploding taste buds lead to exploding waistlines

The restaurant opens at 11:30, so my pals and I arrived at 10:55. We were the first in line, and a dozen more people lined up behind us in no time. The smells of slow cooking meat and spices were wafting in the air as the crowd waited -- a heart-warming aroma for many that was only slightly interrupted by the cups of coffee that some folks brought in line from the MickeyD's next door. The restaurant opened it's doors a bit early at 11:20. The dining room (which was decorated quite tastefully as compared to the lame exterior) was completely seated within a couple minutes with the second-wave diners already in line out front. We ordered quickly and had food brought to us with great speed.

I'm pretty sure my favorite menu item was the simplest: the sweetened soy milk. Our bowl was steamy, sweet, and only slightly creamy. I think American soy drinks miss the boat completely when it comes to the Chinese soy milk experience. The consistency of soy milk is delicate and silky... with more of a mouthfeel that resembles fat-free or 1% milk rather than chalky, thickened-up whole milk.

Soy milk from Exploding taste buds lead to exploding waistlines

Youtiao from Exploding taste buds lead to exploding waistlines

The Chinese doughnuts (youtiao) were hot 'n crispy, and, yes, oily. Don't let the doughnut grease scare you, only a minimal residual amount clings to the crispy/doughy sticks. You won't even notice it after you've dunked your youtiao in your bowl of sweet soy milk, anyway.

The shoabing was also really tasty. The flaky golden pastry that sandwiched perfectly seasoned cold beef cuts was delicious and only had that nice suggestion of sweetness after you gobbled the whole thing up. I would've ordered a whole one for myself if I didn't care to look like a bigger pig than usual.

Shoabing from Exploding taste buds lead to exploding waistlines

The pan fried steam buns were doughy and full of juicy meatball goodness. But, compared to everything else, they seemed like filler. The Chinese leek pie and scallion pancake were also good in their fried glory, but their lack of animal meat or sugary goodness put them in the back of my mind. The salty soy milk was also good, but as a newbie I had no other experiences with which to compare it. If you think of salty soy milk as less like milk and more like a miso soup experience, you'll enjoy it. They add soy sauce and vinegar to the milk which helps curdle up the soy proteins into little silken tofu-like curds.

From Exploding taste buds lead to exploding waistlines

So if you want to ditch the dim sum carts of Chinatown, line up early for a Taiwanese brunch at Chung Shin Yuan instead.

Closing the Boston Chapter - Part 1: Color Korean Cuisine

My favorite Boston Korean place in Boston is in Allston Village. It's not a far walk from Coolidge Corner and a quick 66 bus ride from Harvard Square. The eats are on the cheaper side and are still made the with the love of ten grandmothers. You won't be asked to grill your own food or cook your own soup - these folks prepare everything in back.

Two things bring me back: the sweet and spicy goodness of the best fried chicken in Boston (Color Chicken - small or large order) and the roasted corn tea (served hot in winter and iced in the summer). Sure the service is always nice and there are many other dishes worth eating (tteokbokki, various jigaes, and free side dishes in tasting portions), but in the end all I really want to do is scarf down plenty of fried chicken and wash it down with a delicious beverage - the oksusu cha is as good as anything else since this no-alcohol establishment doesn't serve any ice cold brewskis.

Color Korean Cuisine always hits the spot. It's small, so don't bring only your closest friends. It still seems to be a Korean insider spot, but be not alarmed. Don't be afraid if you call the restaurant and someone answers in Korean... don't even worry if they continue to speak Korean after you've exchanged a few sentences in English, eventually they'll get the idea and speak to you in English. Also remember that these restaurant folks observe the "Lord's Day," so make sure to stop by from Monday through Saturday only.

Bi Bim Bap from Exploding taste buds lead to exploding waistlines

Amazing "Color Chicken" from Exploding taste buds lead to exploding waistlines

Seafood Pancake from Exploding taste buds lead to exploding waistlines

Lois taking food pics from Exploding taste buds lead to exploding waistlines

Boy Bawang: Better than CornNuts

I totally have a wicked migraine, but I came across an unposted picture that made me smile, so I had to write up my thoughts quickly.

From Exploding tastebuds lead to exploding waistlines

I'd say Corn Nuts have always been a well-loved snack in my family. However, it wasn't until earlier this year that I discovered Boy Bawang, a Filipino product that's much tastier, crispier, and easier to eat. Easier to eat? Am I crazy? Corn Nuts can feel like work because the over-sized kernels are so dense. Boy Bawang (or literally, "garlic boy") kernels are made of smaller corn kernels, that when fried, create a thin-shelled, hollow mini kernel. My love of the garlic flavor is just a tad bit extreme. As a garlic lover, it's a fantastic to actually buy a garlic-flavored treat that also contains real deep-fried garlic chips (or bits) in the bag.

It was especially disappointing when I realized that I've had access to this snack almost my whole life (you can find them in pan-Asian or Filipino grocery stores and online), but it took my secret blogging obsession (Filipino wedding videographers and photographers) to finally inspire me to try a bag. I found mine in Quincy at Sure Pinoy Food Mart.

out in the burbs

After church, a carload of some of us young ladies headed out to dinner and dessert...

The first stop was Big Fresh Cafe in Framingham. It's an organic place that focuses on local products - for eating organic and fresh, the menu is priced pretty reasonably. I had the Stir Fry Big Fresh Special, "Organic tofu in a delicious satay sauce, served on brown rice with teriyaki vegetables & collard greens." The presentation was pretty and I added a bit of Bragg Liquid Aminos as a seemingly lower-sodium soy sauce alternative. (I don't know the specs for sure, yet.)



But apparently I didn't get the memo that dinner was really supposed to be a snack, since everyone was saving room for ice cream at North End Treats.

We were surprised to find out that the store had much more than ice cream. Frozen yogurt with mix-ins, Richardson's ice cream, and gelati made up the frozen treat section. Sandwiches, pizzas, and pastries using recipes from Bova's 24-hour Bakery in the North End are sold here, too. Lois had an amazing hazelnut gelato, Evelyn had her first cannoli with chocolate chip-dipped ends, and Pam and I shared an amazing peanut butter cup bar.

Jo-Jo Tai Pei

Do four Taiwanese eateries within a half-mile radius make a neighborhood a Taiwan-town?

The original two Taiwanese store fronts in Allston Village were Infusions Tea Spa (tapioca pearl tea and tea-time snack haven) and its next door neighbor - Yi Soon Bakery. Then Super 88 welcomed a Wisteria in the food court after the Newbury Street location split into two (the Super 88 in Allston and the East Cambridge sit-down). More recently Jo-Jo Tai Pei moved across the street from the bakery.

I've been there twice and both times have been quite tasty. The first time Sandra and Jack brought me there for the "special pork chop over rice" ($6.99), Taiwanese stir-fried noodles ($6.99), "famous spicy beef noodle soup" ($8.99), and "bow bin" shaved ice (small $4.99).

The pork chop plate really felt like a good value. The chop was season, fried, and enormous. Sides included a tea egg, Chinese broccoli, and some pickled turnip (?) - I never touch it, so I'm never sure. I love the "garnish" of stewed fatty pork belly pieces.





The stir fried noodles were simple, not overly oily, and perfectly seasoned with just enough garlic and onion flavor.



The beef noodles, while pricier than I'd like to pay for, were delicious. The spiciness level was decent and the texture of the noodles was dense enough to give a little chew.



The shaved ice was tasty. Of all the sweet toppings I love the tapioca pearls and boiled peanuts the best. While I do enjoy the sweet beans, my brain never gets used to eating sweetened boiled mung beans.



I followed Jerry and Scott there a second time for the "crispy smelly bean curd" ($5.99), oyster pancake ($5.99), cold dan-dan peanut noodles ($6.99), and large bow bin ($6.99).

It was my first stinky tofu experience. The whole restaurant could smell something was up once our order was fired up. A few Asian and non-Asian patrons asked each other "What is that smell?" For all it's pungency, the flavor and texture were pretty mellow. The pieces of tofu are bite-sized, so it's easy to throw a few down the gullet and act like a season stinky-tofu eater. The oyster pancake was good, but not as amazing as Myers+Chang's version. The dan-dan noodles were tasty - and easy enough to take out for a picnic dish. I enjoy them more than Thai Peanut noodle salad because they use a thicker (almost Soba-like) noodle.

I look forward to going back to search for one of my holy grail, childhood food memory dishes - the Jo-Jo Special Mini Steamed Bun. It's a thicker dough version of a soup-on-the-inside dumpling that's been pan seared. The ones I remember from my elementary school days in a South Bay Taiwanese noodle shop were pan fried on both sides, but the Jo-Jo version online appears to be close enough. I'll find out one of these days.

On the Road: Phoenix - Different Pointe of View

Work brought me to the Pointe Hilton resorts in Phoenix. One wonderful part of the visit was dinner at the Different Pointe of View restaurant at the Tapatio Cliffs Resort. Our server mentioned that Executive Chef Anthony DeMuro recently joined and revamped the menu recently. My pals and I were happy to sample the fare and enjoy the panoramic views from North Mountain were especially pretty beneath a setting sun and full moon.

We opened with drinks and appetizers from the patio. I only had a dying digital camera and my Diana, so I was unable to capture pictures of the entrees in their full glory (note to self: upgrade cell phone asap). The Saba Marinated Mission Figs, Mozzarella di Bufala, & Heirloom Tomatoes appetizer was served with Gorgonzola Creme Fraiche, EVOO and Baby Basil. The mozzarella was stunningly creamy and the tomatoes were perfectly hearty. I was happy to share the plate while sipping on my glass of Lagar de Cevara Albarino.

The rest of the night featured the following entrees. Each was carefully prepared and (thankfully) not over seasoned. The waitstaff was s. friendly and easily offered recommendations or sought answers when we had questions. One wonderful surprise was the loup de mer - while some might be scared to order something they could scarce pronounce, our waiter gladly explained the "wolf of the sea" first as "an ugly fish" and second as "French Sea Bass." The flesh was hearty and the smoked applewood flavor permeated the entire fillet.

Pan Seared Muscovy Duck Breast - Pecorino & Alba Truffle-Scented Soft Polenta with Braised Duck, Sauteed Spinach, Clementine Olive Oil Emulsion, Balsamic Drizzle


Pan Seared Coriander Crusted Organic Oregon Lamb Loin - Sweet Golden Corn Parmesan Risotto with Marcona Almonds, Swiss Chard, Dried Zante Currant Lamb Demi Glace

Applewood-smoked Loup de Mer - Piquant Fingerling Potato, Crisp Pancetta, Roasted Tomato & Crimini Mushroom Saute, Butter Braised Leeks, Cabrales Butter, Cabernet Fig Reduction

Chocolate Fire - Sweet Chile Spice Cocoa Cream

The Chocolate Fire was completely amazing - perhaps not on its own at first. We were told that the cold set dessert was prepared with five types of chocolate. That sounded southwestern to us. We each ate a small scoop, allowing the full amount to melt as the heat from our mouths allowed the chili oils to burst on our tongues. To our surprise the waiter brought us a glass of port to heighten our flavor experience. Taking a sip of the port after the chocolate allowed new spicy chili flavors to come through - exposing us all to the real depth of each chile.

Overall, the food, wine, service, and atmosphere of Different Pointe of View was spot on. My only bit of hesitation came to the printing of the menu - I am a grammarphobe, but even I had to look twice at the use of capitalization and hyphens. Perhaps it'd all be easier to do if the languages didn't straddle the French-Italian realm.

I'd be happy to return here someday. Preferably, I'd be back NOT during the s. hot off-season. But if you find yourself in the Valley of the Sun, treat yourself and maybe a friendly Phoenician to a darling view and tasty eats.